The following photos were taken by Darrin DuFord to accompany his article, Istria's edible empires. If you haven't read the article yet, I recommend you do so first.
"Different country, same peninsula, same pie."
just noticed a carved face of a soldier, wearing a tight-fitting, eggshell-style
military helmet and a moustache laced with cobwebs, observing my movements from
a threshold’s keystone."
"A few open-mouthed faces—mascarons, as the
architects call them—looked on from a weathered marble shield hanging off a
building on Plaza Tito, the city’s central square."
"The city’s bilingual street signage reminded me
how Istria is an overlapping seam between romance and Slavic languages, the
former with its flowing vowels, the latter with a keen economy in their use."
"I imagined how difficult the Slovenian language
must be for Italians to speak."
"Meat from the pig head; slices of cotechino, a soft, rich sausage; cured
ham; a dollop of mustard that had been scooped up from a three-gallon
earthenware bucket; a pile of freshly-grated horseradish: all were arranged on
a pig-shaped plate in a restaurant founded in 1897, when Trieste was still
Austro-Hungary’s main port. Back when Austria and Hungary still had coastlines."
"I walked to the counter and approached the
meat man, who was dressed in a white, wide-collared shirt with a relaxed cut
somewhere between that of a butcher’s and a butler’s"
approached the bus station, where I saw a sign for Slovenia mounted on the same
post holding signs for other parts of Trieste. As if Slovenia is just another
neighbourhood of the city."
drink it or eat it?” I asked. Alma,
at the end of the table, answered swiftly. “Both!”
royal food,” Vedran added. “Do you know Emperor Franz Josef? Now you feel like
Darrin DuFord is a seed saver, mapgazer, and jungle rodent connoisseur. His writing has appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, BBC Travel, Gastronomica, and Perceptive Travel, among other publications. He is the author of Is There a Hole in the Boat? Tales of Travel in Panama without a Car, silver medallist in the 2007 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards.